10 June 2007

American Diary part 11 Yellowstone

June 1st We entered Yellostone park from Cody and wound our way up the mountains, through pine trees and up and up to the middle. The park is one giant super volcano with mutliple thermal areas where the earth's core has a direct route to the surface. Mud pools, thermal gases, hot springs all erupt here constantly and it smelles of sulfur almost everywhere. In addition to the geology is a bunch of wildlife including Black Bears, Girzzly (brown) bears, elk, Deer, Wolves, Coyote, chipmunks, Marmots, Big horn sheep.... etc etc etc. I admit to being nervous about camping in *tents* in the middle of bear country. I was looking out all the time for signs of bear! Our first day (before camp) included a visit to Dragon Mouth Cave. A hole in a hillside where thermal gases escape into a pool of hot mineral water creating a 'booming' steam cloud which looks and sounds exactly like you would imagine a dragon's breath to be. After that we stopped at some hot springs with mineral deposits giving amazing colours to the small ponds - turqouise, orange, yellow. We hiked to a waterfall (forgot the name) which was incredible - so much better than Niagara. The vally it had carved was all colours of orange, yellow, brown, red from the minerals. At camp, we pitched tents and everywhere there were signs about Bears! All our food got stored in metal boxes and all our toiletries had to be kept there too. It was a bit freaky. I slept OK though, but it was freeeeeeeeezing! At higher altitude it was cold. June 2nd This full day in the park was fab! It's a vast area, and our camp was at MAdison - on the rim of the 'crater' from the last eruption. The whole area could blow at any time, and if it did, it would wipe out most of North America and have serious consequences for the global climate. But it didn't happen when we were there! Driving around the park, we stopped at the Old Faithfull geyser - I got soaked! On our way to a hiking location, we spotted some activity - lots of cars parked. It was a BEAR!!!!! A black bear was sunbathing in a meadow near some dead trees. We watched for a while from the car, then drove half a mile. Again we stopped - amazingly we saw a grizzly about 100 m from the road, walking through some woods. He was being sent away by the rangers who try to discourage bears from hanging around roadways and peopled areas. He walked for several minutes as a convoy of cars followed him and we parked and got out on foot (blimey!). \It was fine. We were able to watch both bears from our hilly vantage point. The grizz had made the black nervous and he ambled away, leaving Grizz on his own. I got some great footage and shots, but it didn't make me feel relaxed about camping! After that we took a hike up to the summit of Mount Washburn. A 10,000 ft peak with snow along the trail but stunning views across the park, Lake Yellowstone, the crater rim and you could see the thermal activity. I was exhausted but it was worth it. Coming down I spotted bear tracks in the mud and walked a bit quicker! I could write for days about Yellowstone, but the other highlights were seeing a Coyote swim across a stream, loads of chipmunks up close, birdsong, Mammoth Hot springs, Elk, Deer... fabulous mountain scenery... and HOT weather! We actually had sun. June 3rd Leaving Yellowstone we stopped for an afternoon at the Teton National Park. This is a small range of mountains rising 13000 ft with a collection of lakes and forested walking trails. A small group of us climbed a trail to the canyon falls to see a huge waterfall and also discovered some Moose. Feeling tired I took the boat across the lake back to the parking area and shared a pot of ice cream with Nicole. We would have liked to hire a canoe but ran out of time. The photos from here are amazing, crystal clear Jenny Lake, Grand Teton and blue sky! We drove to camp at Jackson Hole pitching tents in the setting sun alongside a small river, ducks, and yellow headed blackbirds providing birdsong. I did more laundry (the true american experience - all human life) and then went with Dan and Min (only us over 21) t0 the Cowboy Saloon Bar in Jackson. Sitting on actual saddles at the bar we drank beers and watched the basbeball on TV, I then lost 2-1 in a game of pool with Dan (who never loses) at least I got one game off him!